SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS

From RV10 Community Wiki
Jump to navigation Jump to search

Supplemental Instructions

Planes with the old flap motor (without integrated position sensor) can be upgraded to use the new flap motor with integrated position sensor. OP 64 is the manual for how to do the upgrade.

Check for more recent updates here

Build Instruction Updates

Check for more recent updates here

Discussions

PAGE 26-2

  • New Flap Motor Variant

The forward edges of the F-1066C-2-L and F-1066C-2-R reinforcement angles are not flush with the forward edge of the seatbelt attach bar horizontal extension, rather they hang over a bit. They would sit flush if left and right angles were switched, however the plans say otherwise.

PAGE 26-3

If you have part F-1016D (seatbelt strap) with an extra tab on the side and two additional holes but your manual depicts that part without flanges/extra holes, you are experiencing the transition from the old flap motor to the new flap motor where the tab is no longer needed. Your manual is a new version but Vans sent you the older part with the tab. According to Vans, just remove the tab and match drill the two extra holes and use same rivets as the other surrounding holes. For details, see this FB thread (FB Link 3/28/2022) and (FB Link 4/1/2022)
If your plans don't match what you have, check the electronic version of the plans which should show up under your name in the vans store.

Step 6 gotcha (Step 7 on V2 of 7/16/21 of the page): Plans call for 'Dimple the screw holes in the inboard flange of the seat rib intercostals that correspond to the flush nut plates...' Note that there are 3 nut plates on this flange, but only 2 of them are flush nut plates. The top nut plate is a K1000-08 and must not have its screw hole dimpled.

PAGE 26-4

There are plans provided as Rev 0, dated 7/24/14, that accidentally show the seat belt fitting on the wrong side of the left outboard rib. A correct page 26-4, also marked Rev 0 and with same date was on the thumb drive of some builders. The newest version provided on their web site, marked as Rev 1 dated 2/24/22 shows it also on the wrong side. However, the detailed figure on page 26-2 shows it correctly.

PAGE 26-5

If you haven't updated your plans in a while, ensure you dimple the #40 holes in the web of F-1015A-L/R. There was a revision on page 26-5 in July of 2021 that added this as step 1. However, don't dimple the holes that are on the flange of F-1015A-L/R which interfaces with F-1004D-L/R.

Note that the F-1015A-R/L seat ribs have a joggle joint on the front edge with the F-1004D-L/R bulkhead where the rib will be on the inside of the outer flange o f the bulkhead. Similarly, the upper portion of the front edge of the F-1018-R/L rib goes inside of the F-1005C-L/R bulkhead however, its lower part goes outside of F-1005C-L/R.

Consider at this point whether you need access holes in the F-1017 under-seat ribs for conduit and/or antenna wiring. Many builders cut holes in the F-1017 ribs for conduit passthroughs. These holes will be much easier to cut at this point.

Also consider marking and cutting/installing antenna doublers on the bottom skins in this general section. This will be much easier now than later, when the seat plates are permanently riveted in place.

PAGE 26-6

Double check that the left and right WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldment parts are labelled correctly by Vans. There are two reports of them being swapped. See also FB Post 4/6/2022.

WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldments have 16 holes each. The corresponding F-1021-L / F-1021-R outboard baggage ribs are missing four of these holes, with no instructions on the page to match drill. Vans support confirmed (12/15/2022 - Gary Keyser support engineer) that it is acceptable to match drill through the WD-1008 into the F-1021 and rivet. The plans corroborate this as they call out 32x AN470AD4-4 rivets.